![]() The one that I saw that got my brain juices flowing was home made wooden, sand filled hammer. This type would be a "lead shot filled" steel dead blow hammer. However, give it a try and let us know the results. I've replaced these long ago with far better, in my opinion,ways of straightening iron. Their primary use is straightening iron and not leaving any marks, not forging hot iron. I've cast lead and copper ones, used brass and wood as well. In fact I've not had a use for a dead blow hammer in my shop for a long time. I have no idea what a steel tube full of bb's would do. The typical dead blow hammer is a cast hammer out of lead. I suspect that when you have the experience with your daily driver hammer to confidently be able to make a good forge weld, there will be no need to test further. Thomas, in the second post nailed it, so to speak, when he said you need a bit of experience with both types of hammers to test this. It indicates the hardness of your anvil surface and it indicates the quality of the forge weld holding the tool steel face to the wrought body. Rebound tells you two things, depending on your anvil type. So you see, rebound is not a factor in your forge weld or for any forging of hot iron on your anvil. I think you will find that the latter two have minimal rebound and the third, at a forge welding heat has the less, if any rebound. Finally bring that piece of half up to forge welding heat and, again, drop your hammer onto it. Next do the same onto a cold piece of iron laying on your anvil face, say a hand held piece of half square. Just let your hammer freely drop onto the face of the anvil and note the rebound. Mainly because rebound is only truly a factor when you strike or drop your hammer onto the face of the anvil. Well, to me this is a redundant question. As opposed to a hammer that delivers as little shock as possible and avoids shock damage to the target.īut I believe it was "light, sure hits, with minimal rebound." both hammers were intended to simulate pile driver hammers for the purposes of soil tests and replaced safety hammers witch were operated with rope and cat head by the driller and less consistent.Īnyway, in short when doing a forge weld YOU want to perform a dead blow, hit the weld with as little rebound as possible. weight t drive 1" - 2" split spoon samplers also required the 30" free fall. with a required 30" free fall and the 140 lb. The casing and penetrometer hammer weighed 340 lbs. The hammers in the automatic power hammers on the drill rig were filled with powdered lead. I haven't seen one in a long time but they're out there. There ARE however dead blow hammers that would probably be adequate for performing forge welds but I've never use one welding. Old days mechanicing we'd put a piece of wood between the target and hammer to take the shock and deliver the force. You want the force but not the shock so you isolate the part from the shock. Say driving bearings into races or races into receivers. As described above a dead blow hammer usually has different soft faces that absorb the impact shock typically delivered by a hammer and can cause damage to objects. A "dead blow" with a hammer is different from a "dead blow hammer." Striking a dead blow means the person striking the blow is hitting the work in such a way as the hammer stops DEAD on the work and minimizing recoil off the work. A heavy hammer and low velocity delivery is a short set of instructions for HOW to perform a dead blow.Ī "Dead Blow" hammer is a hammer that delivers a dead blow but isn't used blacksmithing a second time. Quality, welding and other anvil miscellaneaĢ006 - 2012 Jock Dempsey, Copyright © 1998, 2023 anvilfire.We're talking adverb vs.The set of weights would never have more than a total of 27 in pounds, only 3 quarter hundred weights and as many hundred weights as needed.Ī pounds weight set without duplicates or extras would be composed of: The system seems unweildly but if you use a balance scale and the proper weights you just count the large weights, and total up the small ones and you are done. This calculator does not have a place for tonnes. 2240 pounds (20 CWT) and over is a "long tonne".The last (right hand) position is pounds and must be equal to 27 or less.If it looks like a five then it is a two or a three. The middle position equals quarters (1/4) of a hundred weight.Any position can be zero, and IF zero is marked with a zero character (0).Where the base unit is a hundredweight (CWT or 112 pounds) which is divided into quarter hundredweights, stones and pounds.Ĭommonly used to mark anvil weights before the adoption of the metric system in Great Britain.Įnter digits from your anvil or other object
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